Once you have dry laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in order. You are ready to begin. Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring. Install first row of planks with groove facing the straight edge. Work from left to right. Complete the first row. Make sure there are no gaps between the boards. Use a tapping block if need to close the boards together. Immediately wipe away any excessive adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth.
At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the planks tight. Continue to install the floor working left to right, repeating the process until the completion of the floor. To do this, lay the plank face up on top of the last full row installed.
Trace the wall contour on the last plank using a scrap piece of plank and a pencil. Install cut planks and pull into place with a pry bar. Install spacing wedges between planks and wall. Remove the straight edge starter row and install the last row using the pry bar. Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all spacing wedges and allowing foot traffic.
Nail-Down Installation. Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Jobsite Conditions section above. Additionally, the nail-down installation will only be as good as the subfloor.
If the subfloor is unsound or unlevel, this situation must be corrected prior to installation. Artisan will not be responsible for any problems due to an unlevel or unsound subfloor, especially squeaking and popping.
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping or crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. Some squeaking, popping or crackling is normal and possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions.
This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered under our warranties see warranty brochure for complete warranty coverage. You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation.
Setup and Use of Pneumatic Staplers and Nailers You must make certain that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct nailing schedule. When used improperly, cleats can damage wood flooring. If your subfloor is squeaky, appears to have water stains, or is uneven, you need to fix it before you install a floor over it.
Make sure your subfloor is clean, dry, and level. The most common underlayment for both solid and engineered wood flooring is a vapor barrier— 15 lb. Just remember: you want to make sure your measurement is accurate before cutting. Pro tip: run the barrier 2 inches up the wall prior to cutting; it will help ensure an exact measurement.
Some engineered wood flooring planks have a foam underlayment attached, others must be purchased. Going the floating floor route? The subfloor can be any number of materials including concrete, tile, laminate, etc. Thanks to the lovely pores in real hardwood, the planks are prone to expansion and contraction.
Let them sit in the new room out of the box for days to acclimate. This is a biggie. Be Warned! Proper installation of hardwood floors is key to a valid warranty and getting the most out of your new floors. This can include methods of installation—nailed, glued, stapled, or floating—and even the type of adhesive you use or the specific room you install in.
Consider yourself warned. But: regardless of the method you choose, the step-by-step instructions are always the same:. Now: take this knowledge to a flooring store near you and get ready to install some amazing hardwood floors! Position it to drive the nail through the tongue and tap with a mallet. Adjust the air pressure on the nailer if necessary, to countersink the nails.
Use a jigsaw to cut around any vents or jogs, like a fireplace hearth, to fit the boards. Face-nail the last two rows along the tongue side. You may need to cut the length of the boards to fit in the last row. Use a pull bar to click the boards together. Then, face nail. To finish, cut the excess underlayment and sand and stain if necessary. Then, fill the nail holes with matching wood putty and replace the baseboards and shoe molding to cover the expansion gap.
Finally, add the thresholds for a complete installation. Thanks for signing up! Check your inbox for a welcome email. Email required. By signing up, you agree to our Privacy Notice and European users agree to the data transfer policy.
Individual planks may also be affected by die lot variations due to the staining process. This can be accomplished by randomly inspected boards from different cartons. Do not continue opening cartons and do not discard cartons that were opened during inspection. Immediately notify your supplier where the flooring was purchased that a problem exists with your flooring delivery. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with defects that fall within manufacturing tolerance levels, whatever the cause.
Remove plastic shipping wrap and keep cartons closed. When moving or handling cartons care should be taken to prevent damage to the hardwood flooring inside. Do not store cartons directly on concrete, in garages, basements, near outside walls or in areas where the temperature is uncontrolled. Damage caused by the improper storage and handling of the hardwood flooring product is not covered by the manufacturer warranty.
Proper acclimation ensures the wood flooring is adjusted to the area where it will be installed before installation begins. Flooring cartons must be placed in the area where they will be installed and allowed to acclimate for a minimum of 2 days.
Remove plastic wrap from flooring cartons if present, but do not open the flooring cartons or take out individual planks until acclimation has been achieve and the flooring is ready to be installed. Proper consistent temperature and humidity levels in the installation area is key to the acclimation process. The required room temperature and humidity levels must be maintained for the life of the hardwood floor installation. Once acclimation has been completed, the Installer should evaluate and record the moisture content of the hardwood flooring in relation to the subfloor.
The Installer should document that all pre-installation requirements have been met before proceeding to installation, including but not limited to, moisture testing and recording testing results using photos with location, date, time and initials of the installer on each area of subfloor evaluated. The Owner should retain this documentation with this guide for future reference.
The National Wood Flooring Association nwfa. Section IV, Appendix M. All required pre-installation testing must be completed before proceeding. If moisture problems are detected during the pre-installation phase, a moisture barrier should be in place.
Staple or nail the first row of flooring with the groove facing the starting wall stapling or nailing in 4 to 6 inch spacing increments. Any plank damaged by the process of stapling or nailing, should be pulled up and replaced with a new plank before proceeding. Flooring damaged during the staple or nail installation process is not covered by the manufacturer warranty.
To ensure that plank end joints are not too close to each other in adjacent rows, it is best to rack out 3 to 4 rows as installation proceeds. Allow a minimum of 10 inches to 12 inches between end joints in adjacent rows. When the first section is completed, continue by repeating the process, checking plank alignment with the working line, section by section until installation is complete.
Do not use paint thinner or harsh adhesive-removing chemicals on the hardwood flooring surface as doing so will damage the finish and void the manufacturer warranty. Use a crow or pull bar to install the last plank ensuring a tight fit. Install transition pieces such as reducer strips and T-moldings as needed.
Clean and remove all dirt and debris form your new floor by dry dust mopping.
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