Upon doing so, get the oven into position again, seeking help if necessary , and switch on the mains power. As long as you have the appropriate qualification and status as a competent person to work with electricity, yes. All the same, you do not want to take any chances with such an important appliance, so consult a professional if you have any doubts in your mind!
It could be the wiring, it could be something as a simple as a blown fuse, or it could be an issue with one of the elements within the cooker. Most electric ovens should have a digital clock on them — if this is working, then it suggests the issue stems from a lack of power.
Consult a professional for further advice. Are Electric Cookers Expensive to Run? You connect the earth wire coming from the distribution board to the terminal labelled E or with the earth symbol. The other set of terminal marked load, that where you connect cables taking power to the cooker.
You connect the live wire taking power to the cooker on the terminal marked L , then you connect the neutral wire going to the cooker on the terminal marked N.
You connect the earth wire on the terminal with the earth symbol. Now that you have connected all the 6 cables, you install the cooker control unit on the mounting box. You do this using a screwdriver. Before you screw the cooker control unit, you push the cables nicely into the mounting box.
This practice ensures that when you are screwing the cooker control unit, you do not injure the cables. A cable that is injured can cause a short circuit. A standard cooker, with four plates and an oven, is normally supplied using a 6mm2 cable.
A cooker draws a lot of current from the supply. There are other cookers that will work well when you supply power using 4mm2 cables. Allow me to mention that because a cooker draws a lot of currents, it is usually given its own circuit. A 32A circuit breaker can do for most cookers, though some cookers require that you install a 45A circuit breaker. This means turning the power off at both the cooker control unit and also isolating the circuit directly in the consumer unit or fuse box e.
In this case as we are working with a build under cooker, it will first need to be unscrewed so that it can be pulled out.
This should also be the case for a built-in oven. Firstly, if there is a plinth installed at the base, pop your fingers up and under and pull this forwards to pull it off. It should simply be clipped to the unit legs so should come off easily. This is just to get it out the way. Next, open up both the bottom and top oven if there is one doors and down each side you should see a screw head some where.
These screws are what secures the cooker in place. With any and all screws removed, pull the cooker gently forwards and it should start to pull out from the kitchen unit carcass. Get some help to pull the old electric cooker all the way out, but just before it comes all the way out, drop it down so that the front bottom edge rests on the floor.
In this case as there was a gas hob installed above the old cooker, the gas feed pipe for the hob needed to be considered in terms of the new cooker. Fortunately, the new cooker was slightly shorter in terms of depth than the old one, which meant that the slope was pushed forwards that bit more.
You will need to contact a Gas Safe registered engineer to move the pipe for you. Depending on manufacturer and type of cooker this may vary, but essentially the cable will be connected to some type of terminal.
In this case it was behind a metal plate. We removed the screw holding the plate in place to reveal the connection terminal behind it. Once the connection terminal had been exposed, we could then go ahead and disconnect it. Using a screwdriver, we loosened the live, neutral and earth terminals and then prised the cable free of the terminal. Things can get pretty dirty behind cookers as they are rarely moved.
Vacuum up and dust and debris and then give everything a good clean using some suitable multisurface cleaner. Using a second pair of hands to assist, gently lift the new cooker in to place and then gently slide it back into the kitchen unit housing. If all is well and good, the new cooker should slide in fairly easily. If not you will need to pull it back out and inspect it to find out why.
Tip : To allow the new cooker to slide in a little easier, squirt some furniture polish on the base and around the sides of the interior of the kitchen unit carcass. In this case, once fitted we found that the new cooker was 5mm taller than the old one, meaning it did not slide under the worktop. To cure this, we pulled it back out and then dropped the unit down just over 5mm by replacing some of the packers that were in place under the unit feet.
Now that we know that the new cooker will fit into the unit recess as it should do, before we can actually fit it in place, the final job is to connect the electrical supply cable to the terminal on the rear of the new cooker.
In the case of our supply cable, it was fairly old so was still using the old style wire colours as opposed to the new. As it had been tested after the new consumer unit install a few months previous we knew this was the case and could go ahead and connect it up. If however you are dealing with wires using the new wire colour scheme, they are as follows more information on wire colours can be found in our project here :.
In most cases there will be some kind over cover over the terminals to protect them and prevent shocks and anything from touching the live terminal. Remove this for now. Just to make sure all was well, the power was then turned back on to make sure the cooker fired up.
Once confirmed, the power was once more turned off. Position the cooker with the rear bottom edge resting on the base of the unit and then lift the front edge with help if needed and slide it backwards into the unit carcass, applying some gentle pressure.
Once in place, ensure the sides of the cooker are flush with the edge of the carcass so that it can be screwed in place. Once fixed properly in place, the last job is to remove any and all packaging from the front of the electric cooker and also more importantly, anything from the inside. Once all gone, you can then safely turn the power back on and fire it up to make sure it works as it should do. Replacing and connecting up an electric cooker is a fairly simple job as long as everything is in place to allow for a straight swap.
If, however, there is an doubt, you should always get a professional electrician in to do the work for you. All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology.
Apologies, but we don't seem to have a video for this project yet, but we will do our best to get one up soon. Find a tradesman now! We love feedback on our DIY tutorials it helps us to make them the best they possibly can be so if you have any comments you would like to share with us, click the button below and let us know. Skip to primary navigation Skip to main content Skip to primary sidebar Skip to footer Main navigation.
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